Born on 26th
March 1988, Finnish model Suvi Koponen began her career in 2005, when she won a
televised contest to discover new modelling talent. Based on the concept of
‘America’s Next Top Model’, Suvi won the competition, giving the ANTM franchise
one of its biggest success stories.
Moving into
the real world of modelling, Suvi found herself in demand. In September 2006,
she was chosen to both open and close the Prada Spring / Summer 2007 show, also
walking in the Miu Miu show a month later as an exclusive.
Being picked
to appear in a Prada show is big news, but getting both the opening and closing
spots is phenomenal. Suvi’s ready-to-wear debut for Prada has since entered
ANTM folklore, with Tyra Banks regularly referring to Suvi’s stunning debut.
Suvi’s entrance into the fashion world defied the expectation that ANTM
winners, and their international counterparts, can look forward to a frosty
reception on entering the modelling world. Along with Australian competition
winner Alice Burdeu, Suvi proves that a new face discovered by a television
contest can be just as current and sought-after as a model discovered by
scouting. Suvi’s early acceptance by the fashion industry at large was no fluke
either: she was featured as one of www.style.com’s
Top Ten Models of the S/S 2007 season.
Spending the
early part of 2007 on editorial work, including spreads for French Vogue, Suvi
had her first blockbuster season that February. Opening shows for Jil Stuart,
Marc by Marc Jacobs and Marni, she took part in a massive 63 shows. These
included Anna Sui, Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Fendi, Jil Sander, Louis Vuitton,
Prada, Sportmax, Versace and Zac Posen. These were not token bookings either,
but bookings of the highest standard. Any lingering doubt over Suvi’s ability
to, quite literally, walk to the walk, was swiftly dispelled.
2007 saw
Suvi land several major campaigns as well; appearing in ads for Blumarine with
Bette Franke; Mulberry photographed by Steven Meisel and Balenciaga with
Anabela Belikova. Again, this was an incredible start to a new model’s career,
and Koponen’s CV was fast filling up with top-drawer credits.
In
September, she was back on the runway, matching the record she had set back in
February. This time, she was selected to open eight shows: Jill Stuart, DKNY,
Reem Acra, Carolina Herrera, Alberta Ferretti, Anna Molinari, Fendi and Just
Cavalli. To be invited to open one show is an honour. To be requested for eight
is a major achievement.
Suvi’s
exposure on the runway circuit meant that she became a must-have for print
work, and between September and December 2007, she booked editorials for W,
British and American Vogue.
January 2008
saw Suvi take on her very first haute couture season in Paris, walking in S/S
shows for Chanel, Dior, Christian Lacroix and Givenchy. Her runway skills were
requested for ready-to-wear the following month, with an even bigger season.
Walking in 65 shows overall, Koponen opened shows for Herve Leger and DKNY,
also closing shows for Alexander Wang, Carolina Herrera, Paul Smith and Marni.
All these
hours spent on the catwalk made Suvi the focus of the fashion press. Not only
did she land the cover of Numero, but in April 2008 she appeared in French
Vogue, rated as a top model. The magazine also listed several other models
including Catherine McNeil, Lara Stone, Kasia Struss, Raquel Zimmermann, Coco
Rocha and Natasha Poly. Some were emerging talents (Struss, McNeil, Stone)
alongside those who were already starting to make their presence felt (Rocha,
Poly, Zimmermann). It is also a reminder of just how quickly career progression
in the modelling world can move: in 2008, Lara Stone was a virtual newcomer,
promoted by French Vogue in particular. Nearly five years on, she is one of
fashion’s most recognisable faces.
Suvi rounded
out 2008 with editorial work for key publications such as French Vogue and
Interview. Regularly working around the world, Suvi was now fully established
as an international model.
After
skipping Fashion Week in early 2009, Suvi returned to the industry having
changed agencies. Leaving Supreme Management, Koponen chose to sign on with
Next Models, an agency with a significant reputation for signing some of
fashion’s most directional faces. Models on their books at the moment include
Abbey Lee Kershaw, Caroline Trentini, Hailey Clauson, Meghan Collison and
Zuzanna Bijoch.
In September
2010, Suvi had another good RTW season, closing the Versace show and walking
for Proenza Schouler, Chloe, Louis Vuitton and YSL. It is after this point that
Koponen’s career experienced a quieter phase. As every model moves through
their career, the odds of booking a job fluctuate from time to time. This can
be down to any number of factors, but the most obvious reason is that fashions
change. If your look is a good fit with current trends, you will be extremely
busy. If it doesn’t, you play the waiting game.
In 2012,
Suvi came back with a bang, returning to the runway in February. Making show appearances
for Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta, Celine, Gucci, Hermes, Reed Krakoff,
Rick Owens and Valentino, Koponen was still more than capable of securing those
big-name bookings.
In July,
Suvi re-appeared in French Vogue. ‘Paris Mon Amour’, photographed by Mario
Sorrenti and styled by editor Emmanuelle Alt, showcased the many faces of
Parisian style. Koponen was joined by a stellar cast of models including
Doutzen Kroes, Isabeli Fontana, Anais Mali, Arizona Muse and Kati Nescher.
But Suvi was
soon back on the campaign trail once more, this time with three major bookings.
The first was for Alexander McQueen. Shot by David Sims, in a massive
multi-image campaign, Suvi works the McQueen love of extreme shapes and bold
textures with a lightness and playfulness that totally suit the direction that
has been taken by Sarah Burton. Blending a sense of fun with serious
craftsmanship, McQueen is in many ways a good fit for Suvi: high-fashion that
doesn’t take itself too seriously. Next, Suvi
worked on the Autumn / Winter campaign for Chloe. Working with Anja Rubik, both
models show off Chloe’s mastery of chic, feminine tailoring.
But Suvi’s
biggest signing of 2012 was a solo spot in the Chloe fragrance campaign.
Photographed by Fabien Baron, this is the campaign that will have the most
immediate impact in terms of Suvi’s profile. A campaign that makes stars of
models, this is the fragrance ad every model wants to get. The fragrance has
inspired a campaign that has in turn created in its own iconography. The softly
lit, retro-feminine look is quintessential Chloe. An instantly recognisable
formula, it is proof that even in fashion, a great idea is sometimes worth
repeating.
Eight years
into her career, what is exciting is that Suvi’s 2012 comeback has seen her popularity
soar – there is no indication that her career trajectory will start to slow
down in 2013 – it looks to be doing just the opposite.
Suvi really
is the unexpected star of the ANTM franchise. She is the all-rounder that Tyra
Banks envisaged when she created the show. Wanting to find a girl who could be
equally strong in all areas of modelling: catwalk, editorial and campaigns,
Banks’ idea has gone global and has produced some notable talent. Alice Burdeu
(Australia’s Next Top Model winner) also wowed the fashion world, even booking
a campaign with D&G. But for longevity, Koponen is very much the blueprint
for any future contestants.
She may be
an inspirational example held up to aspiring contestants, but the reality is
Suvi didn’t become a winner until after leaving the show. Her first booking
with Prada could be attributed to good luck, but Suvi’s continuing success, her
work in front of the camera, and on the catwalk, tells the story of a model
that has excelled by taking nothing for granted. If you’re starting out on your
own modelling career, and looking to be inspired, there’s no better place to
start.
HELEN TOPE
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