Model Citizen

It is a truth universally acknowledged that the modelling industry is littered with stories of discovery. Kate Moss was discovered at an airport; Jessica Stam was found at a coffee shop and Jourdan Dunn was scouted whilst shopping at Primark.

These stories have become the stuff of legend; namely, that any pretty girl (if she hangs round for long enough) will be discovered – it’s all a matter of luck. To be sure, there is an element of luck in securing an agent, but the reality of being ‘discovered’ is somewhat different – and much more like hard work.

Modelling agencies routinely receive hundreds of applications every year, and of those, only a tiny fraction makes it through to an initial meeting, let alone the elusive contract signing. Success in finding an agency may be a numbers game, but those numbers are small.


Before we go any further, you must be honest with yourself. Ask yourself, right now, why you want to be a model. If the answer falls anywhere in the ‘I want to be famous’ ball-park, quit while you are ahead. If your aspirations begin and end with a guest spot on Celebrity Big Brother, this is not the game for you.

If you start a career in modelling, you can look forward to a career that boasts long hours, few perks and wearing designer clothes completely out of season (bikinis in November, anyone?). In addition to this, you may end up spending weeks and months away from your family and friends. If you feel you can cope with this, carry on reading.



Modelling may seem to be the glamorous option in the grey-flannel world of 9-5. But make no mistake: modelling is for the tough cookies of this world. To succeed as a model, you need stamina, resilience and the (metaphorical) skin of a rhino. Modelling is a tough business, but a business first and foremost. Models are commodities. When applying to an agency, you must know how to present yourself as a covetable commodity. It is a crowded marketplace already; to stand out you must sell yourself and sell yourself well.

If you genuinely have a passion for fashion, there is no better place to start. The internet is the best tool at your disposal in terms of applying to modelling agencies. It can be used not only to sniff out agency contacts, but also used as an invaluable means of research.

However, type ‘modelling’ into any search engine and you will come up against some of the greatest pitfalls too. If you receive or see any of the following, avoid like the plague:

§ Online invites (via Facebook or any chatroom);

§ Companies inviting you to pay large sums of cash to attend an ‘Assessment Day’ with a ‘top photographer’ to grade your suitability;

§ Any agency that charges a ‘casting fee’ or advises you to spend large sums of money building a ‘professional portfolio’.

My prolific use of sarcastically-applied speech marks should give you a clue of how you should regard these blatant attempts to part you from your cash. In order to secure an agency’s interest, you do not need to part with any money. These scams are run by individuals who have little or no connection with the legitimate modelling industry. As a general rule, the more they promise, the less you’ll receive.

Assuming you’ve now found an agency’s website that you like the look of. There’s no mention of fees or expensive portfolios? Good. Look around the website for the use of these initials: AMA. These refer to the Association of Model Agents. This association represents the best modelling agencies in the UK, and the ones with the most work. There is no guarantee an agency associated with the AMA will accept you, of course, but if they do, you can be pretty much assured that you are in safe hands. Only reputable agencies are part of this organisation.

While you are looking at an agency’s website, cast an eye over the models currently on their books. These are signposts to the aspiring model – do you (roughly) match the look of these girls? Be realistic about your own marketable appeal: if you are a girl-next-door type with a great smile, then a top-notch editorial agency may not be for you.

Scour fashion magazines as part of your research too, and locate yourself within the current industry. If you are an edgy beauty who got teased at school for being gangly and awkward, you may find your place within the high-fashion world. If you are that smiley, girl-next-door type, you might like to note that commercial modelling can provide a highly rewarding (and lucrative) career.

There are numerous agencies out there, each catering to a different area of the market. If you really have ‘it’, that indefinable something, you will eventually find your niche.

So – you’ve found an agency that seems to match your look. The next step is how to apply. After research, come headshots. Remember when I said you don’t need a portfolio? All you really need is you, a friend and a digital camera.

Most agencies require a head-shot (head and shoulders, taken from the front) and a full body-shot (head to toe, again taken head-on). Before snapping away, always check the agency’s website first as they will usually have a page that stipulates application requirements - some agencies prefer a head-shot and a profile-shot. Don’t worry if your photographer isn’t brimming with previous experience: a good agent will be able to tell if you are photogenic from non-professional snapshots.

These photos need to be shot in good light (natural or artificial). The background needs to be as clutter-free as you can make it – standing against a blank wall is perfect. Just remember that you are the focus - no arty shots here! In terms of posing, stand up straight with your shoulders back. Resist the urge to slump or hunch over like the girls in Vogue. There’ll be plenty of time for that sort of thing later on. It’s easier said than done, but do not smile or pout. Most agencies prefer a relaxed, neutral expression which allows your features to do the talking.

Like the photo, you must present yourself as a clean, uncluttered canvas. Do not make the common mistake of over-dressing. Wear nothing too trendy or distracting. A simple vest and a good pair of jeans are ideal. Make sure the clothes clearly show the outline of your figure, but are not too tight.

With hair and make-up, think pared down but polished. Clean hair is a must – if it is long, pull it back off your face into a ponytail. Use make-up sparingly but effectively. Use a tiny amount of brown-black mascara (brown if you are blonde), and a touch of lip-balm to define your features so they don’t wash out on camera. However much make-up you think you might need, decrease it by 25%. The make-up needs to subtly enhance your features and bone structure – not get in their way. Eyeliner, blush and lip-gloss are not your friends here. An agent wants to see you, not what you can do with a Ruby & Millie retractable eye pencil. Many girls applying to agencies, however, will make this mistake– let them go ahead. It may feel strange, but less is most definitely more and will give you an automatic head-start over the wannabes who have failed to do their homework.

The agent will, in viewing your photos, need to see the quality of your skin. However, if your skin poses such a problem that it absolutely needs coverage, you will score points with an agent for being honest about this. Problem skin (especially teenage) can be treated easily with medication, so don’t view this as an insurmountable hurdle. It may be a bug-bear for you, but an agent may see a few spots as nothing that can’t be fixed.

Be aware when choosing how to present yourself in these photos, that it must be a reasonable representation of what you really look like. Absolutely no digital re-touching, however tempted you may be!

When you have two photos that you are happy with, they can be usually downloaded straight to the agency via their website (again, check individual agencies for their submission guidelines). Remember to leave clear contact details, including a mobile number so you can be reached during the day.

Good news: an agent’s seen your pictures and thinks you may have potential. You are cordially invited to go to the agency and meet with the agent in person.

Treat this meeting in the way you would a normal job interview – prepare as much in advance as possible.

Again, research is crucial. Re-visit the agency’s website and glean as much information from it as possible. What is the main focus of its work – commercial, editorial, or a mixture of the two? Who are the agency’s main players, and who are its alumni?

Take this opportunity to delve deeper into the fashion world: read fashion magazines like they’re going out of style and go beyond the usual suspects. Learn about new photographers, designers and up-and-coming faces in the modelling world. Just remember: a little knowledge is not a dangerous thing.

Now it’s time for the logistics. If you’re going to an agency in an unfamiliar city, plan your route ahead of time and make Streetmap your bible. When estimating travelling time, always be over-generous. It’s better to feel daft cooling your heels in a cafe because you’ve arrived too early, than arriving in the fog of blind panic that comes from knowing that you are horribly, irretrievably late. Remember that modelling, for all the perceived glitz and glamour, is a business. Take a tip from Tyra Banks, and be on time like your life depends on it.

When deciding on what to wear for the meeting, think back to how you presented yourself in the photo. Think clean, modern and polished. By dressing in this way, you are presenting yourself as a blank canvas onto which an agent can project and speculate how best to fit you into an already-teeming industry. Presenting yourself in this way also has the added bonus of making you look professional, and even better, flags up to the agent that you know what you’re doing.

When you are talking to the agent, be friendly and attentive. If you need a moment to frame a response to a question, don’t be afraid to take it. It shows that you’re taking them seriously. There is no doubt that you will get the perennial ‘...and why do you want to be a model?’ question – don’t blurt out the first thing that comes into your head. Think about what really inspires you about fashion. There is nothing more encouraging to an agent than a prospective model that is passionate and engaged about the industry.

Be prepared for the fact that you may not get an immediate answer from the agent. Many will need to discuss you with colleagues before reaching a final decision, especially in larger agencies where there is standing room only. Don’t be despondent if you feel the meeting didn’t go as well as you’d hoped. However you feel it went, it’s important to remain upbeat and polite when thanking the agent for their time.

When you do get that phone-call, be prepared for rejection and when it does come your way, don’t take it personally: there’s a lot of it to go round. If you are not right for one agency, you may be perfect for another. It is very rare to be accepted onto an agency’s books at the first go.

If you do get a no, ask for feedback. Some of it may not be what you want to hear, but take it onboard for next time. If you are unsuccessful, but get largely positive notes, ask for any recommendations on where to go from here. The fashion-world is tightly knit and the agent will almost certainly know of an agency where you might get a more favourable response.

Repeat this process until you get that elusive yes, and good luck!



These stories have become the stuff of legend; namely, that any pretty girl (if she hangs round for long enough) will be discovered – it’s all a matter of luck. To be sure, there is an element of luck in securing an agent, but the reality of being ‘discovered’ is somewhat different – and much more like hard work.

Modelling agencies routinely receive hundreds of applications every year, and of those, only a tiny fraction makes it through to an initial meeting, let alone the elusive contract signing. Success in finding an agency may be a numbers game, but those numbers are small.


Before we go any further, you must be honest with yourself. Ask yourself, right now, why you want to be a model. If the answer falls anywhere in the ‘I want to be famous’ ball-park, quit while you are ahead. If your aspirations begin and end with a guest spot on Celebrity Big Brother, this is not the game for you.

If you start a career in modelling, you can look forward to a career that boasts long hours, few perks and wearing designer clothes completely out of season (bikinis in November, anyone?). In addition to this, you may end up spending weeks and months away from your family and friends. If you feel you can cope with this, carry on reading.



Modelling may seem to be the glamorous option in the grey-flannel world of 9-5. But make no mistake: modelling is for the tough cookies of this world. To succeed as a model, you need stamina, resilience and the (metaphorical) skin of a rhino. Modelling is a tough business, but a business first and foremost. Models are commodities. When applying to an agency, you must know how to present yourself as a covetable commodity. It is a crowded marketplace already; to stand out you must sell yourself and sell yourself well.

If you genuinely have a passion for fashion, there is no better place to start. The internet is the best tool at your disposal in terms of applying to modelling agencies. It can be used not only to sniff out agency contacts, but also used as an invaluable means of research.

However, type ‘modelling’ into any search engine and you will come up against some of the greatest pitfalls too. If you receive or see any of the following, avoid like the plague:

Online invites (via Facebook or any chatroom);

Companies inviting you to pay large sums of cash to attend an ‘Assessment Day’ with a ‘top photographer’ to grade your suitability;

Any agency that charges a ‘casting fee’ or advises you to spend large sums of money building a ‘professional portfolio’.

My prolific use of sarcastically-applied speech marks should give you a clue of how you should regard these blatant attempts to part you from your cash. In order to secure an agency’s interest, you do not need to part with any money. These scams are run by individuals who have little or no connection with the legitimate modelling industry. As a general rule, the more they promise, the less you’ll receive.

Assuming you’ve now found an agency’s website that you like the look of. There’s no mention of fees or expensive portfolios? Good. Look around the website for the use of these initials: AMA. These refer to the Association of Model Agents. This association represents the best modelling agencies in the UK, and the ones with the most work. There is no guarantee an agency associated with the AMA will accept you, of course, but if they do, you can be pretty much assured that you are in safe hands. Only reputable agencies are part of this organisation.

While you are looking at an agency’s website, cast an eye over the models currently on their books. These are signposts to the aspiring model – do you (roughly) match the look of these girls? Be realistic about your own marketable appeal: if you are a girl-next-door type with a great smile, then a top-notch editorial agency may not be for you.

Scour fashion magazines as part of your research too, and locate yourself within the current industry. If you are an edgy beauty who got teased at school for being gangly and awkward, you may find your place within the high-fashion world. If you are that smiley, girl-next-door type, you might like to note that commercial modelling can provide a highly rewarding (and lucrative) career.

There are numerous agencies out there, each catering to a different area of the market. If you really have ‘it’, that indefinable something, you will eventually find your niche.

So – you’ve found an agency that seems to match your look. The next step is how to apply. After research, come headshots. Remember when I said you don’t need a portfolio? All you really need is you, a friend and a digital camera.

Most agencies require a head-shot (head and shoulders, taken from the front) and a full body-shot (head to toe, again taken head-on). Before snapping away, always check the agency’s website first as they will usually have a page that stipulates application requirements - some agencies prefer a head-shot and a profile-shot. Don’t worry if your photographer isn’t brimming with previous experience: a good agent will be able to tell if you are photogenic from non-professional snapshots.

These photos need to be shot in good light (natural or artificial). The background needs to be as clutter-free as you can make it – standing against a blank wall is perfect. Just remember that you are the focus - no arty shots here! In terms of posing, stand up straight with your shoulders back. Resist the urge to slump or hunch over like the girls in Vogue. There’ll be plenty of time for that sort of thing later on. It’s easier said than done, but do not smile or pout. Most agencies prefer a relaxed, neutral expression which allows your features to do the talking.

Like the photo, you must present yourself as a clean, uncluttered canvas. Do not make the common mistake of over-dressing. Wear nothing too trendy or distracting. A simple vest and a good pair of jeans are ideal. Make sure the clothes clearly show the outline of your figure, but are not too tight.

With hair and make-up, think pared down but polished. Clean hair is a must – if it is long, pull it back off your face into a ponytail. Use make-up sparingly but effectively. Use a tiny amount of brown-black mascara (brown if you are blonde), and a touch of lip-balm to define your features so they don’t wash out on camera. However much make-up you think you might need, decrease it by 25%. The make-up needs to subtly enhance your features and bone structure – not get in their way. Eyeliner, blush and lip-gloss are not your friends here. An agent wants to see you, not what you can do with a Ruby & Millie retractable eye pencil. Many girls applying to agencies, however, will make this mistake– let them go ahead. It may feel strange, but less is most definitely more and will give you an automatic head-start over the wannabes who have failed to do their homework.

The agent will, in viewing your photos, need to see the quality of your skin. However, if your skin poses such a problem that it absolutely needs coverage, you will score points with an agent for being honest about this. Problem skin (especially teenage) can be treated easily with medication, so don’t view this as an insurmountable hurdle. It may be a bug-bear for you, but an agent may see a few spots as nothing that can’t be fixed.

Be aware when choosing how to present yourself in these photos, that it must be a reasonable representation of what you really look like. Absolutely no digital re-touching, however tempted you may be!

When you have two photos that you are happy with, they can be usually downloaded straight to the agency via their website (again, check individual agencies for their submission guidelines). Remember to leave clear contact details, including a mobile number so you can be reached during the day.

Good news: an agent’s seen your pictures and thinks you may have potential. You are cordially invited to go to the agency and meet with the agent in person.

Treat this meeting in the way you would a normal job interview – prepare as much in advance as possible.

Again, research is crucial. Re-visit the agency’s website and glean as much information from it as possible. What is the main focus of its work – commercial, editorial, or a mixture of the two? Who are the agency’s main players, and who are its alumni?

Take this opportunity to delve deeper into the fashion world: read fashion magazines like they’re going out of style and go beyond the usual suspects. Learn about new photographers, designers and up-and-coming faces in the modelling world. Just remember: a little knowledge is not a dangerous thing.

Now it’s time for the logistics. If you’re going to an agency in an unfamiliar city, plan your route ahead of time and make Streetmap your bible. When estimating travelling time, always be over-generous. It’s better to feel daft cooling your heels in a cafe because you’ve arrived too early, than arriving in the fog of blind panic that comes from knowing that you are horribly, irretrievably late. Remember that modelling, for all the perceived glitz and glamour, is a business. Take a tip from Tyra Banks, and be on time like your life depends on it.

When deciding on what to wear for the meeting, think back to how you presented yourself in the photo. Think clean, modern and polished. By dressing in this way, you are presenting yourself as a blank canvas onto which an agent can project and speculate how best to fit you into an already-teeming industry. Presenting yourself in this way also has the added bonus of making you look professional, and even better, flags up to the agent that you know what you’re doing.

When you are talking to the agent, be friendly and attentive. If you need a moment to frame a response to a question, don’t be afraid to take it. It shows that you’re taking them seriously. There is no doubt that you will get the perennial ‘...and why do you want to be a model?’ question – don’t blurt out the first thing that comes into your head. Think about what really inspires you about fashion. There is nothing more encouraging to an agent than a prospective model that is passionate and engaged about the industry.

Be prepared for the fact that you may not get an immediate answer from the agent. Many will need to discuss you with colleagues before reaching a final decision, especially in larger agencies where there is standing room only. Don’t be despondent if you feel the meeting didn’t go as well as you’d hoped. However you feel it went, it’s important to remain upbeat and polite when thanking the agent for their time.

When you do get that phone-call, be prepared for rejection and when it does come your way, don’t take it personally: there’s a lot of it to go round. If you are not right for one agency, you may be perfect for another. It is very rare to be accepted onto an agency’s books at the first go.

If you do get a no, ask for feedback. Some of it may not be what you want to hear, but take it onboard for next time. If you are unsuccessful, but get largely positive notes, ask for any recommendations on where to go from here. The fashion-world is tightly knit and the agent will almost certainly know of an agency where you might get a more favourable response.

Repeat this process until you get that elusive yes, and good luck!

Helen T.