Born on February 21 1994, Maria Bradley signed with
Chicago-based agency Factor Models in 2011. Aged 17, Bradley undertook her first major runway season
that September, with a select group of designers including Alexander Wang,
Balenciaga, Proenza Schouler, Tommy Hilfiger and Versace.
An individual booking with any of these designers would
represent a highly significant achievement for a new model. Collectively, this
debut of less than 10 shows may be small, but it’s perfectly formed. Maria
walked in the Balenciaga and Versace shows as exclusives – an affirmative nod
from two of the biggest, most influential names in fashion.
Leaning more towards the edgier side of fashion’s spectrum,
Maria’s success with Balenciaga is understandable, but her booking with Versace
is perhaps more of a surprise. Traditionally aligned with high glamour, Versace
has recently undergone an image revolution, with its campaign this time last
year fronted by super-edgy model Saskia de Brauw. Taking the ultimate
glamour-girl label in a whole new direction, coupled with Christopher Kane’s effortlessly
cool work at Versus, this Italian powerhouse has toughened up. Compare its
campaigns of ten years ago to its latest signing, Elza Luijendijk and it shows
how a major label progresses and evolves.
In late 2011, Maria also signed with DNA Models, based in
New York. In January 2012, she made her debut for British magazine, ‘Dazed
& Confused’. Following that with an appearance in British Vogue, Bradley’s
editorial looks were already translating well.
In February 2012, Bradley experienced her first runway
season as a ‘must-have’ girl. Clocking up an amazing 50 shows, she worked with
heritage brands to blockbuster labels including Chanel, Donna Karan, Gareth
Pugh, Helmut Lang, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Rag & Bone, Sportmax,
Valentino, Victoria Beckham and YSL.
This roster of bookings has all the hallmarks of belonging
to a long-established model. Virtually every design ‘niche’ is represented
here, and it’s partly down to Maria’s androgynous looks. Once considered a
niche in itself, androgynous models now have the advantage of working in a much
more fluid fashion industry. Her features make her ideal for all kinds of work
– with a bit of styling she is ready for the high-living glamour of a Michael
Kors show; stripped back, she is spot-on for the minimal aesthetic of Helmut
Lang.
In March, Maria returned to the editorial circuit again,
this time appearing in cult magazine, i-D.
Photographed by Amy Troost, the spread was named ‘Don’t Be a Drag, Just
Be a Queen’. Taken directly from the lyrics of Lady Gaga’s single ‘Born This
Way’, Maria modelled warrior-woman, tough-as-nails fashion.
In May, Maria took to the runway, this time for resort
season. Appearing in resort (or cruise) shows for Jonathan Saunders, Reed
Krakoff, Narciso Rodriguez and Alexander Wang, the highlight of the Resort 2013
season was undoubtedly Chanel’s show held at Versailles. Maria modelled in this
show, in which Karl Lagerfeld indulged his taste for high-drama. With the
models styled in pastels and hi-top trainers, Lagerfeld worked with the classic
Chanel dichotomy of masculine and feminine. Scoring serious column inches for
its lavish production values, Chanel Cruise is as much an event as the main
ready-to-wear shows.
The following month, Bradley made her inaugural appearance for
W. Modelling for ‘City Slickers’, an editorial photographed by Craig McDean,
Maria modelled the summer trend, sports-luxe. Maria exuded confidence in this
shoot, no doubt explained by the fact that her hobbies include football,
ski-ing, cross-country running and basketball. In this shoot, Bradley does not
need to fake it: her enthusiasm for sport makes her a natural.
Repeated bookings with clients are one way of telling
whether you’re on the right track, and Bradley’s career is studded with
examples of clients coming back for more. Bradley returned again to the pages
of W in July, and in the same month, she returned to ‘Dazed & Confused’, modelling
with Prada’s latest it-girl, Katryn Kruger.
In August, Maria shot her third editorial for W magazine,
this time in a portrait series called ‘Natural Selection’. Focusing on
fashion’s new-season obsession with texture, Bradley worked with models Ophelie
Rupp, Ondria Hardin, Jeneil Williams and Laura Kampman.
September’s RTW season saw Maria return to the runway, this
time walking for Peter Som, Tommy Hilfiger, Thakoon, Alexander Wang, Prabal
Gurung, Belstaff, Vera Wang, Diesel, Michael Kors, Reed Krakoff, Proenza
Schouler and Christopher Kane. Look closely, and you’ll see just how many of
these names Bradley has already worked for.
Maria’s editorial career took a step up this month, with an
appearance scheduled for the October issue of Russian Vogue. ‘Dark Side’,
photographed by Ben Toms, sees Maria transform for a beauty shoot that
showcases the minimal make-up that’s bang on trend for this autumn. Re-writing
the rules on the berry tones usually favoured for this season, this neutral
take on autumn beauty is a breath of fresh air. A perfect complement to this
season’s decadence; this make-up is low on effort, but delivers full-on impact.
Bradley is an ideal choice for this type of shoot, with a very modern type of
beauty just right for modelling a very modern type of make-up.
With Bradley now celebrating a year in the modelling world,
a sign of just how far she has come in 12 months arrives in the form of
bona-fide industry approval. Bradley can now claim to be one of a very elite
group of new models, labelled as stars of the future by www.models.com.
She joins successful newcomers including current Prada campaign girl
Madison Headrick, British beauties Lara Mullen and Rosie Tapner and Givenchy
campaign favourite, Dutch model Stef van der Laan.
What is noticeable about the popular website’s list is just
how many of these new faces are unashamedly editorial. Having cross-over
potential used to be modelling’s Holy Grail; girls who could book Victoria’s
Secret as well as Chanel Couture. But, as ever, fashion loves to change its
mind. The new season campaign for Givenchy is a textbook case in point in that
it is 100% directional in tone. The bold, uncompromising image looks more like
a spread for Italian Vogue than a traditional campaign. This isn’t about maintaining
a consumer-friendly brand, rather more creating a strong, core identity. In
short, Givenchy is marking its territory. A strong, memorable campaign means a
boost in sales and good sales mean survival for another year. The face that has
to front this, of course, cannot be anything but extraordinary. Brands are
clamouring for these newer faces, the faces that aren’t the safe choice by any
definition. This new season is seeing a
tide change in how labels are representing themselves: out with familiarity, in
with beauty that’s as challenging as it is beguiling.
Maria Bradley joins models such as Madison Headrick and Stef
van der Laan to become a ‘statement face’. Bradley can adapt, and brilliantly,
but at heart, she is a model squarely focused on the androgynous end of the
fashion market. It is here where the greatest revolutions are taking place:
androgyny is no longer limited to a fashion sidebar, but it has become the
modern industry’s greatest asset. In other words, true versatility.
Bradley’s great run of editorial and runway work is just the
precursor to a longer, even more successful career. Bradley is the ideal
candidate for future campaigns that will take their lead from
Givenchy. Faces that will not only sell, but persuade at a deeper level – it’s
only a matter of time before Maria becomes the rising star every label must
have.
HELEN TOPE
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