MODEL PROFILES: MACKENZIE DRAZAN

Born in Woodside, California, on the 10^th August 1995, Mackenzie was discovered at the age of 14. A year later, she had been named a newcomer to watch by www.models.com ,  signing up with Elite Models. 

In July 2010, a month shy of her 15^th birthday, Drazan debuted at the Autumn / Winter show for Valentino Couture. Mackenzie then took a brief 6-month break from modelling, returning in February 2011. Drazan made her ready-to-wear debut, including appearances for Jil Sander, Calvin Klein and Louis Vuitton.

Drazan’s early start at the very highest levels of catwalk modelling marked her out as a casting must-have.  Returning to the catwalk again that September, Mackenzie added Alexander McQueen, Celine and Balenciaga to her growing list of credits. Finishing the year with appearances in the pre-fall lookbook for Narciso Rodriguez and the pre-fall collection show for Calvin Klein, Drazan was already becoming a favourite with some of the world’s biggest labels. 

Her growing list of credits certainly got Mackenzie noticed, and in February 2012, she had her first blockbuster ready-to-wear season, walking in over 65 shows. The Autumn / Winter 2012 season saw bolder, more expressive designs making all the right moves, and the return of certain trends, such as outsize and head-to-toe print, seen at Jil Sander and Prada respectively, was tailor-made for a taller model like Drazan.  This season was an important one for the still-teenage model, and her stock soared as a result.

Mackenzie’s next assignment saw Drazan book an editorial for Italian Vogue. Photographed by Emma Summerton for the beauty supplement cover, Drazan worked the avant-garde look with total confidence. Italian Vogue’s enthusiasm for editorial make-up has become a micro-trend, with the looks that are accompanying this season’s fashion definitely moving into braver territory. The traditional smoky eye has been transformed into a multi-coloured, peacock eye, mimicking the explosion of colour that has been seen on the catwalks. Follow that with the incredible growth in nail art: not only in terms of colour but design and texture, and Italian Vogue’s take on beauty is right on the pulse. Avant-garde looks are no longer the preserve of magazine editorials, but real-life achievable.  As our fashion choices get a little riskier, make-up had no choice but to step up its game.

Drazan’s incredible run of catwalk success continued into the summer, with appearances at the resort shows including Alberta Ferretti, Bottega Veneta, Salvatore Ferragamo and Valentino. But Mackenzie’s biggest career moment was just around the corner. 

In July, Mackenzie made the cover of Italian Vogue. Photographed by Steven Meisel, this was the autumn / winter preview issue. Sharing the cover itself with Vanessa Axente, the fold-out, multi-model cover also featured Lida Fox, Elena Bartels, Julia Nobis and Erjona Ala. Channelling gothic glamour in the gowns from the Gucci collection, this was a new vision of how glamour should look for the upcoming season. Dark, moody but achingly covetable, this cover made everyone sit up and take notice.

Any appearance in Italian Vogue represents a huge turning point in a model’s career, as the magazine often champions new modelling talent, with fashion’s edgiest and most exciting faces often making their editorial debut within those pages. By getting onto the actual cover, Mackenzie had not only staked her claim to be one of those new, exciting faces, but to be one of the future leading faces in the modelling industry.

Drazan returned to catwalk duty again in July, this time heading to Paris for the couture shows. Walking in shows for Chanel, Elie Saab, Giambattista Valli and Valentino, Mackenzie also appeared in Raf Simons’ inaugural show for Dior. 

Mackenzie’s summer was filled with editorial commitments, starting with a spread for Dazed & Confused. Following that with an appearance in British Vogue, ‘Best in Show’ (photographed by Daniel Jackson), saw Mackenzie working the textured trouser-suit, and Mackenzie’s debut for W (‘Natural Selection’) saw her model the season’s texture theme with Laura Kampman, Ondria Hardin, Ophelie Rupp and Franzi Mueller.

Even with that heavy workload, Mackenzie continued to be in high demand, being booked for 55 shows in September. Including Marc Jacobs, Chanel, Givenchy, Versus, Dries Van Noten and Proenza Schouler, Mackenzie’s mix of blue-blood delicacy and ambiguous androgyny has made her a perfect runway model. The sheer range of design sensibilities that Drazan has modelled to date is dizzying: her portfolio takes us from the full-on sex appeal of Versus, to the cerebral chic of Dries Van Noten.

Following her success in the very best of editorial and runway, Drazan took her career to the next logical step this autumn with a campaign signing. However, as typical of the rest of her career, Mackenzie did not start small. She was booked for the Louis Vuitton Autumn / Winter campaign. An opinion divider, the Louis Vuitton campaign goes for broke with the amount of modelling talent on display. Working both in small teams and as part of a larger narrative, the models had their work cut out for them. The challenge was to perform as individuals but to impress as a collective. With something going on in every corner of the frame, each image created by campaign photographer Steven Meisel, is fascinating. Whether you liked the collection or not, the campaign demands you take a second look.

As Drazan moves in ever more impressive circles, her success is down to the fact that she is an American model with major cross-continent appeal. Her looks, old-school beauty with a touch of the modern, make her a natural ‘fit’ for most editorials, runways and covers. 

Drazan’s success is also down to timing: during the 1980’s, American models were historically locked into the commercial arena of the fashion industry. Blockbuster names like Cindy Crawford were as well known by the public as fashion insiders. The wide-ranging appeal of those faces hard-wired that look into our minds: to be American was to, by extension, be commercial. 

This continued long into the Nineties and it wasn’t until recently that we learned to appreciate a whole new kind of American beauty. Faces like Karlie Kloss, Charlotte Free, Chanel Iman and Lindsey Wixson have tackled, head-on, the perception that Americans can’t do hard-core editorial. Wixson, with her unusual features, has radically challenged the idea that American models are commercial by definition. Wixson, currently the face of Mulberry and Chanel, is spiky, bold and adaptable, covering cute and whimsical through to ultra high-fashion.

Where Mackenzie fits is somewhere between Wixson’s edginess and Karlie Kloss’ all-rounder appeal. Drazan’s success on the catwalk most closely aligns her with Kloss – a model that rose to the top by clocking up a serious amount of runway hours. Kloss succeeded by being visible, and this strategy appears to be working for Drazan too.

But whereas Kloss has re-defined the term ‘all-American’, Drazan differs by offering something more elusive. She may be a California girl, but looking at Mackenzie, you can imagine her being a native of almost anywhere.  Her lack of definability is what has propelled Mackenzie to the top of the industry at break-neck speed, explaining why she is as comfortable in Valentino Couture as Balenciaga’s ready-to-wear. There is a phrase that to be a jack of all trades is to be master of none, but this is certainly not true of modelling: a face that can lend itself to any look is one that will undoubtedly prosper. 

Already a favourite with fashion’s most influential designers, Mackenzie Drazan is set to become America’s most exciting modelling prospect in years. Once again challenging us to re-shape our ideas of what an American model looks like, Drazan is the next stage in America’s endeavour to become world-class at sourcing the best editorial talent. With Drazan already on the rise, this may be a case of mission accomplished.

HELEN TOPE

MODEL PROFILES: CLAUDIA SCHIFFER

Quite simply one of the most famous faces in the world, Claudia Schiffer marks an indelible place in modelling history.

Discovered in a German nightclub at the age of 17, Schiffer’s rate of progress into the heart of the fashion industry was astounding. Charming Karl Lagerfeld during her first time in Paris, Claudia was modelling for Chanel Haute Couture by the time she was 20.

Born in Rheinberg, Germany, on August 25th 1970, Claudia Schiffer grew fast – by age 16 Claudia was already 5’ 11”. Her height meant that for the shy teenager, blending into the background was not an option.

This innate ability to stand out in a crowd changed Claudia’s life in 1987 when she was discovered by Metropolitan Agency boss Michel Levaton. That same year, Claudia abandoned her plans to become a lawyer, and flew to Paris to pursue modelling.

In 1989, Claudia was propelled to stardom by becoming the face of Guess? Jeans. Her look, quite different from that of Crawford, Evangelista and Campbell, was widely feted in the press. Dubbed the ‘new Bardot’, after film icon Brigitte Bardot, the impact on Claudia’s career was nothing short of incendiary.

Catapulted to the top, Schiffer began working with the biggest names in fashion. In August and November 1990 she fronted the cover of American Vogue, having already scored the cover of Italian Vogue in March. Photographed by Steven Meisel, Claudia’s high-fashion credits rapidly began to build. By 1995, she had posed for over 100 magazine covers from across the world. In 1992, she was the American Vogue cover girl four times, landing the spot in April, May, June and September. Claudia did campaigns with Chanel and Escada, also representing Chloe, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino.

To list every one of Claudia’s credits would be an exhaustive process. After Kate Moss, Claudia was one of the most sought-after faces of the Nineties. Making cameo appearances in cult films like ‘Wayne’s World’ cemented her as a celebrity too. Like her predecessor Cindy Crawford, Claudia’s looks appealed to both men and women, and Claudia was determined to make the best of it.

The ‘supermodel’ phenomenon reached new heights when Claudia teamed up with friends Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington and Elle McPherson to launch the opening of the ‘Fashion Cafe’ in 1996. A restaurant built around the concept of fashion, the venture did not connect with the public, and the cafe closed in 1998.

The era of commanding $10,000 a day (at least) was coming to an end. With new quirky girls like Kristen McMenamy enthralling the industry, the notion of ‘supermodel’ seemed out of step with popular culture. High-octane glamour didn’t translate to a generation of teenagers wedded to their flannel shirts. Some did well out of the Grunge era, but as models like Kate Moss rocketed; Schiffer found her career momentum beginning to slow.

In these quieter years, Claudia’s personal life blossomed, marrying film producer and director Matthew Vaughn, becoming a mother to son Caspar in 2003 and daughter Clementine in 2004.
Claudia’s professional career, with just a few campaigns here and there, seemed to be on the downturn. But as her children became ready to go to school, Claudia began to do the school-run with them in Notting Hill. Naturally the presence of a supermodel standing outside the school gates would attract some attention, but Claudia’s relaxed and stylish approach to school-run dressing sparked media frenzy.

Claudia’s ability to wear classic shapes and pair them with newer trends had magazine editors clamouring to run how-to guides for their readers who wanted a piece of the Schiffer style for themselves. A new style icon was born.

In 2007, Claudia’s career sparked back to life. Renewed interest in her led to seriously prestigious campaigns. In autumn 2007, she appeared in the Salvatore Ferragamo campaign after landing the cover of French Vogue in August.

Claudia’s return to high fashion was made official in 2008 when Karl Lagerfeld named her the new face of Chanel, 18 years after she had first walked in his couture show. As comebacks go, this was truly extraordinary.

The offers of work continued to flood in as Claudia joined fellow Nineties icons Naomi Campbell and Stephanie Seymour for the Louis Vuitton ad campaign. June and July 2008 saw back-to-back covers of Spanish and German Vogue, and in May, Schiffer attended the Costume Institute Gala in New York. Her plus-one was fashion legend Valentino. 2009 followed suit with editorials for French and Italian Vogue, and Claudia at the end of the year became the face of YSL.

This return to the spotlight was more than fashion allowing its former ‘Bardot’ one last curtain call. Claudia’s return to modelling is in part down to her perseverance, but more significantly, it can be attributed to the renaissance of the blonde.

The revival of blue-eyed blondes in the modelling industry is a response to advertisers’ demand for wholesome, reassuring faces. Even with projects that are ostensibly high fashion, many models who find themselves in this bracket are seldom out of work.

Social commentators have prescribed this shift down to simple economics: advertisers want a time-tested formula to sell their product. The last thing anybody wants to do in a recession is take unnecessary risks and getting a blue-eyed blonde model to represent your brand is the safest bet of all.

In this climate, the buzz surrounding new girls Dorith Mous and Hannah Holman is not unexpected. Models like Schiffer, Raquel Zimmermann, Lily Donaldson and Toni Garn are all scooping the major ad campaigns including Chanel, Fendi, Prada, Marc Jacobs and Versace. If fashion’s big guns all want blue-eyed blondes, this is more than mere coincidence.

Everyone, regardless of where they stand in terms of personal likes or dislikes, responds favourably to blondes. It is the thrill of the exotic: in a society increasingly dominated by brunettes, blonde represents something beyond the ordinary and everyday. That kind of association is what has big brands clamouring for Schiffer. With her already-established celebrity status, Schiffer is well-placed to revive any flagging brand. A good model equals great buzz, but a great model like Schiffer? Her degree of influence is immeasurable, because she brings together the best of fashion and celebrity.

It is no accident that Claudia’s return to the epicentre of high-fashion has been so celebrated. Whatever she is selling, Schiffer has favourably altered the bottom line of any product she represents. Advertisers want models with wide-ranging appeal, and no-one meets that brief better than Claudia.

Claudia’s second wind is more than a passing nostalgia for 90’s supermodels; she embodies a type of perennial beauty like Christy Turlington. Claudia’s strength is that she doesn’t belong to a particular decade or trend, which is why she can slot so easily into current campaigns for Chanel and YSL without missing a beat. Not being tied to a particular look, Schiffer has blended in by standing out.

A true fashion veteran, Claudia Schiffer has made longevity an art form. Her return to high fashion is about more than just good timing. If Schiffer was an average model, her career would have fizzled out years ago. But her doe-eyed sex appeal paired with an ability to be authentic and credible has proved an irresistible combination. Luck has certainly played its part in Claudia’s career, but it is hard work that has kept her on the radar.

Not afraid to take lower-prestige campaigns during the quieter periods of her career, Schiffer’s resolve to stay on the fashion map indicates someone with backbone. Out of all the supermodels who have recently returned to favour Claudia’s comeback feels a little more permanent, because she has every intention of sticking around. With Schiffer, there are no Plan B’s, no clothing range or lifestyle brand. There is only Plan A.

With an astonishing back catalogue of work, Claudia Schiffer is probably the most misunderstood of fashion personalities. She was the sex-kitten of the Nineties, the girl who nearly married a magician and now the poster-girl for stylish mums everywhere. But her latest reincarnation is perhaps truest to the woman herself. The uber-groomed blonde basking in the spotlight in the latest Ferragamo advert – that is the real Claudia. There is a real tenacity to Schiffer that is liable to be overlooked, but beneath the clichés and misinterpretation, there is a model of surprising depth and versatility.

If you remain unconvinced that Schiffer’s career is anything other than being in the right place at the right time, consider this. Schiffer holds the world record for the most magazine covers in modelling history. Recent estimation puts the count at over 700 covers. This is not success by chance, but by design.

Twenty years on from her discovery, Schiffer’s standard as one of the most recognisable models in the world remains quietly, but firmly, assured.

HELEN TOPE

MODEL PROFILES: CINDY CRAWFORD

For many, Cindy Crawford was the face of the Eighties. Her sophisticated, sultry look ran against everything the decade represented, but in spite of that Crawford brought ‘sexy’ back to the modelling industry, and made curves big business.

Born in 1966, and discovered at the age of 16 by a local newspaper photographer, Cindy broke into the industry when she entered the Elite Model Look of the Year contest a year later. She did not win the competition, but Elite were so impressed by her potential, that they signed her up anyway.

Cindy’s inauguration into the fashion world coincided with the ‘boom’ years of the Eighties, where people had plenty of disposable cash, and were in a mood to spend.

Classic American designers like Ralph Lauren did especially well during this era: the ‘preppy’ look (think 1950’s college student) was especially popular and people were definitely willing to pay top dollar for it.

The craze for labels started here. In the 70’s, top fashion labels such as Halston were only worn (and known) by a select few. In the Eighties, all that changed. Advertising made high fashion visible, desirable and most importantly, attainable.

Labels became a second language both here and especially in America. They spoke of status and wealth, taste being a secondary concern at this point. All that mattered was wearing the ‘right’ labels. It was more a case of who you wore, rather than how you wore it. Which goes some way to explaining some of the sartorial delights you can see if you google Eighties fashion.

This is the world Cindy Crawford stepped into when she signed up with Elite. High-fashion at the time was devoting its energies to pursing the income of the glitz and glamour crowd, and as we know, the Eighties were all about excess.

Bouffant hair laden with hairspray, and heavy make-up, made catwalk models appear years older than they actually were. This allowed customers to envisage themselves in the clothes. Designers wanted their clothes to sell, and flattered their customers by making the models look like them.

It was a canny ploy. Everyone now wanted to look worldly and sophisticated, and the concept of natural beauty was left behind, as much a part of the discarded Seventies as tank-tops and T-Rex.

This pursuit of mannequin-like perfection meant that Cindy Crawford’s impact on the modelling scene was not immediate, as the industry did not fully appreciate what it was she had to offer.
Her now-trademark mole was airbrushed off many of her earliest photographs, including a cover for Vogue. Crawford has since admitted that at the time, she felt under pressure to conform and have the mole removed – to create that perfect blank canvas – but she stood her ground and the mole stayed.

At the time it was a small decision, but in terms of her career, absolutely pivotal. Cindy Crawford flew the flag for natural beauty and the mole saved her from getting lost in the crowd. The ‘imperfection’ made her stand out, and being remembered is half the battle in getting work within the modelling industry.

As modelling jobs began to stack up, Crawford made a reputation for herself. Her curvy physique and dark features caught the attention of people outside the immediate fashion circle and created a stir in the wider media. She was a refreshing antidote to the 80’s mega-macho pop culture of cold beer, fast cars and beautiful women. A complete opposite to the coldly perfected faces in fashion, her fresh-faced beauty captured the public’s interest. Here was a model they could empathise with: someone who was warm and engaging, but still undeniably beautiful. The girl-next-door got an upgrade, as Crawford became a pin-up for teenage boys across the globe.

As her popularity grew, Crawford widened people’s perception of what sexy could be: a girl with beauty and brains, and unapologetic about having both? That was something new. She switched the idea of the ‘sexy American girl’ from a ditsy blonde bombshell to a sultry brunette ‘with brains and charm’, to quote US designer Michael Kors. Her image ran counter to every expectation, and her popularity soared because she was so different. People were ready for someone who was a non-conformist, and smart with it.

Expanding these horizons has been absolutely fundamental to the modelling industry, because if sexy only equals blonde hair and blue eyes – that’s a somewhat limited brief. Cindy was one of the first models to appeal equally to both men and women. Her unique mix of natural beauty and intelligent sex appeal made her a favourite with both.

Her success in the fashion world (including campaigns with Escada and Revlon, and covers with Vogue, W, Harpers Bazaar, Elle and Cosmopolitan) shows that she understood very clearly the difference in modelling for a predominantly female market, and modelling for a campaign specifically targeted at men. Her expertise in crafting her image towards a product, designer or campaign has been crucial to the development of modelling. Models like Tyra Banks and Gisele Bundchen owe a great debt to their predecessor.

As her name became better known, Crawford moved from fashion to television, as popular adverts (including one for Pepsi) proved that television couldn’t get enough of Cindy’s down-to-earth charm. She scored a lucrative job hosting MTV’s ‘House of Style’ from 1989 to 1995. The fashion news and features programme made contemporary fashion a visible presence in living rooms across the world. Cindy’s easy-going personality and natural flair in front of the camera ensured people stayed watching.

The popularity of the style show coincided with the era of the ‘supermodel’: a small, elect band of models who could command huge fees for just one day’s work. Cindy was part of that group, alongside Claudia Schiffer, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington. They were not just models; they were celebrities in their own right.

Their fame turned to notoriety when Linda Evangelista famously told an interviewer that she wouldn’t consider getting out of bed for anything less than $10,000. There is now some discussion as to whether Evangelista made that comment in jest, but its controversy sparked a backlash against these models. Where they actually worth the astronomical fees they commanded?

At this point, Cindy Crawford sidelined into more television and film work, allowing herself to quietly drop off the fashion radar. It was good timing on her part, as fashion lost interest in the ‘Supers’, and fell in love with a new generation of androgynous girls spear-headed by a newly-discovered Kate Moss. They were younger, but more importantly, as the 80’s economic bubble burst, they were cheaper.

As fashion moved on, Cindy Crawford developed her business acumen she had cultivated during an unusually long modelling career. Tailoring a skincare line and home furnishings brand, she devoted the next decade to doing what she did best: selling.

Cindy Crawford was one of the first models to ‘do it all’: modelling, acting, presenting and big business. Crawford was perceptive enough to take notice of what was going on around her, and not take success for granted. Her astute business sense and ability to openly evaluate her own strengths provided a stand-out business model for the next generation following her.

Fashion once sneered at the concept of ‘sex sells’, perceiving it be something low-rent and nothing to do with the rarefied world of haute couture. Now it is difficult to imagine the fashion world without it. From catwalks to editorials, a smouldering look now sells everything from sunglasses to face cream. Cindy proved that sex appeal could be something subtle and aspirational – something that would enhance high fashion rather than act as an unwelcome distraction.

Cindy Crawford also opened doors for models to be able to do ultra-sexy swimwear shoots, alongside more traditional modelling fare of beauty campaigns and couture shows. Crawford proved it is possible to do it all, and do it on your own terms.

By not conforming, Crawford created a new type of career that had a huge impact on the modelling industry itself. A model entering the market today does not have to pick and choose as to whether she can be sultry, or high-fashion. It is possible to pursue both avenues and retain your credibility.

Crawford altered our perceptions of what ‘sexy’ looks like, and did so while holding onto her intelligence and much-needed sense of humour. It has kept her in the public eye for more than 20 years, and her place within modelling history remains, and will be for the foreseeable future, undisputed and unrivalled.

HELEN TOPE