MODEL PROFILES: FEI FEI SUN

Born in China in 1989, Fei Fei Sun has already become one of the breakthrough stars of 2013.

Aged 19, Sun represented her country in the Elite Models Look competition, eventually placing third. She began her modelling career in earnest one year later, featuring on the cover of Chinese Marie Claire in March, and debuting at Fashion Week that September. Walking in shows for Nathan Jenden and Mulberry, it was a strong start. 

Finishing 2009 with a stint in the Chanel pre-fall show, which took place in Shanghai, Fei signed with Muse Management in early 2010. 

In February 2010, Fei Fei experienced her breakthrough season, closing the Autumn / Winter show for Vivienne Westwood. Sun also scored runway bookings with Christopher Kane, Elie Saab, Issa, Jil Sander, Marios Schwab, Meadham Kirchoff, Sonia Rykiel and Thierry Mugler. It was a good spread of editorial talent, plus the high octane glamour offered by such labels as Elie Saab and Issa.

Deciding to move management again mid-year, Fei Fei left Muse Management, and signed with Women Management. In May, she appeared on the cover of China’s Harper’s Bazaar. Modelling alongside some of the key model talent emerging from Asia, including Shu Pei and Xiao Wen Ju, this was a bold, statement cover that just ten years ago, would have been impossible to compile. 

A few months later, Fei Fei landed the cover of Chinese Vogue, fronting its September issue. Sun shared the cover with models Ming Xi, Shu Pei, Tao Okamoto and Estee Lauder favourite, Liu Wen. Appearing for the magazine’s 5^th anniversary edition, this was a watershed moment for both the magazine and China’s ability to make an impact on the world of high-fashion. 

In January 2011, Fei Fei started off the year by modelling in the Givenchy Couture presentation in Paris. The collection, modelled exclusively by Asian models, was a softly-lit rainbow of pastels which read especially well on camera. The striking textures made this collection a sure-thing for A-listers looking to find the perfect dress for Awards Season: many of the pieces made it onto the red carpet, most notably a lavender beaded gown worn by Cate Blanchett for her return to the Oscars.

January also proved a banner month for Fei Fei’s editorial career, when she landed a spot in an Italian Vogue editorial. Photographed by Steven Meisel, ‘The Power of Glamour’ played on the idea of candid, behind-the-scenes shots at a runway show. Also featuring top models Anais Mali, Arizona Muse and Freja Beha Erichsen, in terms of fashion editorial, Fei was now operating on a world stage.

In February, Fei Fei made her debut for American Vogue, featuring in a massive season preview, ‘Gangs of New York’. With models split into groups, each group profiling a key collection for that season, Sun modelled pieces by Proenza Schouler, working with fellow model Ming Xi.

Returning to the catwalk, Fei Fei’s bookings increased ten-fold, with Sun appearing in over 55 shows. The following month, she returned to her editorial work, appearing for American magazine V and Chinese Vogue. The latter saw Fei Fei appear in a beauty supplement, with Sun showing a growing talent for handling the up-and-close scrutiny of the beauty shot.

In April 2011, Sun fronted the cover of Japanese Vogue, which also featured models from Australia (Bambi Northwood-Blyth); the Netherlands (Milou van Groesen) and the U.S (Britt Maren). This was a truly international cover, with Japanese Vogue scouring every corner of the globe for the hottest new faces. Their ability to scout the latest talent proved right on the money, with Milou van Groesen becoming the face of Armani a year later.

June saw Fei Fei heading to Paris for her biggest couture season to date, with appearances for Chanel, Elie Saab, Giambattista Valli and Zuhair Murad. Her obvious flair for couture came in handy when she took to the pages of Italian Vogue again, this time for a haute couture spread, ‘Pret a Porter’.

With Fei Fei doing so well in runway and editorial, the requests to have her represent major brands came flooding in. Autumn 2011 saw Fei Fei’s campaign stock rise and rise with bookings for Chanel Cosmetics and Louis Vuitton. Sun’s standing in the industry had evolved from newcomer to must-hire.

In September, Sun had a second mammoth RTW season with 56 shows, including an opening spot for Rag & Bone. Forming a perfect blend of heritage, blockbuster and cutting-edge labels, Fei Fei walked in shows for Alexander Wang, Bottega Veneta, Chloe, Dolce & Gabbana, Givenchy, Marc Jacobs, Prada, Richard Nicoll, Rodarte , Tory Burch and Tom Ford. It was a well-rounded season, neatly illustrating just how indispensable Sun had become.

The next month saw Fei Fei hit another editorial high note, with a debut for French Vogue. Photographed by Hans Feurer, in a cross-cultural reference, Sun wore luxurious American labels including Ralph Lauren.

January 2012 saw Fei Fei return to the pages of American Vogue, this time appearing in an editorial tribute to Marc Jacobs. Photographed by Annie Leibowitz, ‘A Man for All Seasons’, the editorial was a fascinating look back through Jacobs’ greatest sartorial hits. It was, for any model, an editorial you wanted to be a part of.

Sun landed one of her biggest campaign signings in early Spring 2012, with a leading role in the Valentino Spring / Summer ad. Photographed by Deborah Turbeville, the campaign was soft, gracious and feminine – perfectly encapsulating the new direction taken by the Valentino team. Staying true to the grounding principles of the label founded by Valentino, this campaign showed the brand heading in a direction that was fresh and modern, but a direction that ultimately felt like a natural progression, rather than change for change’s sake.

Taking a break from the runway circuit, Fei Fei concentrated on print work during early 2012, re-emerging in June as the face of Giorgio Armani cosmetics. A real success story, with refined, elegant textures in sleek, modern packaging, the make-up has been a critical and commercial hit. True to form, the campaign is a triumph of discreet glamour. Fei Fei’s appearance is beautifully understated but deftly controlled; a master-class in how to model beauty in the 21^st century, her performance is nothing short of stunning.

Making a strong return to the runway in September, Fei Fei walked in shows for designers including Miu Miu, Vanessa Bruno, Roberto Cavalli, Prabal Gurung, Derek Lam, Tommy Hilfiger and Jason Wu.

Sun modelled the big trend of A/W 2012 for Chinese Vogue when she featured in their editorial ‘Elegant Weaving’. Led by photographer Lachlan Bailey, Fei Fei modelled knitwear done the high-fashion way. Open weaves, high necks and big chunky textures such as cable knit, this was Sun proving she could do the big trends as well as the more nuanced work, as required by beauty campaigns.

In Autumn, Sun reprised her brilliant turn for Giorgio Armani cosmetics, this time working with Patricia van der Vliet and Elena Melnik. While Patricia and Elena worked the darker, more intense shades traditionally associated with autumn and winter make-up, Fei Fei modelled the ‘nude’ make-up look. A new take on A/W beauty, this pared-back look proved a perfect match for the ornate, highly-decorated clothes that made their way onto our style radar in late 2012. As this past season was a marriage of contrasts (wild, retro prints competing for our attention alongside muted tailoring), so S/S 2013 will continue this trend of not one, but many voices. Instead of one trend seeking dominance, high fashion is now seeing different ideas emerge as equals. For those who want variety, it’s very good news.

Against a backdrop of an industry that’s still moving forward, models that exhibit depth and range are doing particularly well. Just weeks into 2013, Fei Fei has emerged as a front runner, overnight becoming one of the hottest names in fashion. This January, Sun appeared on the cover of Italian Vogue. A major achievement, Fei Fei is the first Asian model to land this prestigious cover. Photographed by Steven Meisel, ‘Global Life’ not only makes history but makes direct reference to it. Channelling China Machado (1950’s model and muse to famed photographer Richard Avedon), Sun embodies retro elegance.  Putting that beauty-campaign face to good use, Meisel creates a series of images that showcase what an incredible model Sun really is. Acclaimed by both the fashion press and news agencies around the world, Sun’s glorious, confident performance has ensured that for 2013, all eyes will be on her.

HELEN TOPE

MODEL PROFILES: LIU WEN

Born in China on January 27^th 1988, Liu Wen is already on her way to becoming the face of international beauty.

After an appearance in the New Silk Road World Model Contest in summer 2005, she began modelling locally, aged 17. Her career began in earnest two years later, with editorial bookings for Chinese Vogue and Chinese Harper’s Bazaar. Scoring the cover of Chinese Marie Claire in December 2007, she made a pivotal decision in 2008, signing with Marilyn Agency in Paris.

The move to Marilyn proved crucial: in February 2008 she appeared in not one but four separate editorials for Chinese Vogue and made her international catwalk debut, walking in runway shows for Burberry, Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Maison Martin Margiela and Trussardi.

March saw Wen make appearances on the cover of Chinese Elle and inside the pages of Chinese Vogue. Her impact on the ready-to-wear shows in February was discernible as she made her couture debut in July. Walking for both Jean Paul Gaultier and Chanel, Wen’s couture-perfect height made her a must-have booking.

Having put in the legwork, Liu reaped the rewards when she saw her ready-to-wear catwalk bookings rocket to 46 appearances. Her season was so successful www.style.com named her one of their Top 10 Newcomers.

Rounding out an amazing year with two more editorials for Chinese Vogue, Liu began 2009 with a bang. Selected by French Vogue to appear in their calendar, to Wen the assignment was more than just the thrill of being a calendar girl. She was crossing boundaries, shooting daring images with fashion’s agent provocateur, Terry Richardson.

Her ability to head into uncharted territory was noted by ‘New York Look’ who featured her as a rising star. With January spent in Paris for couture season, Liu experienced a mammoth ready-to-wear season the following month with nearly 75 shows. In an industry where 40 shows are enough to get you noticed, over 70 put Wen in the big leagues.

She walked for designers such as Balenciaga, Carolina Herrera, Chloe, Derek Lam, Dries Van Noten, Gucci, Jason Wu, Lanvin, Marios Schwab, Michael Kors, Rag & Bone, Vera Wang and Wunderkind. It was an epic mix of ultra-editorial designers (Schwab, Rag & Bone) and classic, money-maker labels (Chloe, Gucci). This was a star-making season for Liu. If she wasn’t on your radar before, she was now.

Between April and June, Wen appeared in Italian Flair, i-D, Chinese Vogue and British Harper’s Bazaar. Her growing status within the industry saw her couture credits grow to include Dior when she took to the Parisian runway in July.

Undertaking her first editorial for British Vogue the same month, she began clocking up more blockbuster campaigns. Featuring in the Autumn / Winter campaign for DKNY, Wen also made her debut for Gap, Benetton and New York department store, Barney’s. She was becoming a triple threat, handling couture to commercial cool.

Most models consider themselves lucky to experience one amazing RTW season. Wen, after her amazing 75-show run in February, made the headlines again with over 70 appearances on the world’s catwalks in September. She added more designers to her CV, including Amanda Wakeley, Celine, Diane Von Furstenberg, Jonathan Saunders, Peter Pilotto, Rachel Roy and Prada.

In October, Liu went back to her roots, appearing again in Chinese Vogue. ‘Essence of Red’, photographed by Kai Z Feng, saw Liu in a series of red gowns, the editorial an avant-garde exploration of China’s primary colour. Daring and meaningful, the spread showcased everything Wen had learnt on the world stage.

With a career already filling with big moments, in November, Wen hit a high note when she became the first Asian model to walk in the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show. Televised in America and broadcast on the internet, this was a major first for Liu. Putting Asian beauty on the map, she channelled elegance and charm: a debut perfect for the lingerie brand.

2010 showed no signs of Liu’s career slowing, as she signed up to become one of the faces of Calvin Klein’s clothing line. She undertook another successful RTW season in February, and in March, she appeared in her first editorial for American fashion bible, W.

The spread, ‘Chic Mystique’, portrayed Wen in a new light, as she became a sultry scene-stealer. Liu held her own against models that make these shoots their bread and butter: teaming up with Lara Stone, Shalom Harlow, Jessica Miller and Eniko Mihalik, Wen transforms into one of the girls.

In April, the news broke that Wen would be signed as a campaign regular for Estee Lauder. Also signed were Joan Smalls and Constance Jablonski. The news made headlines around the world, as Liu became the first Asian model to represent the iconic cosmetics brand.

By hiring French Jablonski, Puerto Rican Joan Smalls and Chinese Liu Wen, Estee Lauder made a very real and very meaningful attempt at a beauty campaign that spoke to as many women as possible. The campaign not only presented three women from different backgrounds, but three models that were equally matched in terms of runway, editorial and campaign experience. The casting was inspired with the three models working together to create campaign history. As an idea, it was powerful stuff. As a statement, it was undeniable.

In September, Liu undertook another blockbuster season with 44 shows including Balenciaga, D&G, Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren, Stella McCartney and Tom Ford. The season was capped with a seminal cover of Chinese Vogue. Appearing with models Ming Xi, Shu Pei and Tao Okamoto, they were featured as the mega-stars behind the Asian modelling phenomenon. It was a feat made all the more incredible when you consider that as little as ten years ago, assembling this cover would have been impossible.

Liu appeared in three editorials of the same issue, with focus on everything from streamlined aesthetics to dreamy romanticism. Japan and China may be known for their love of sharp, clean lines; but one look at their love affair with ceramics tells us that ornate, decorative detail is in the blood. The perfect balance of economy and flourish on a Ming vase is a great metaphor for Asia’s take on fashion. As their influence is set to grow over the next decade, it’s not too far a stretch to imagine fashion following their lead: economy and flourish.

Ending 2010 with her second walk down Victoria’s Secret runway, Liu made her American Vogue debut in December, appearing in an editorial shot by Steven Meisel. ‘Asia Major’ was a rock and roll approach to haute couture, marrying the best of Parisian fashion with punk-kid street culture.

American Vogue is never one to let a trend slip by, and their celebration of Japan and China’s success in the modelling world is acknowledgement of the biggest phenomenon since the wave of talent from Eastern Europe. Like Natasha Poly, Sasha Pivovarova and Natalia Vodianova, expect to see Liu Wen, Emma Pei and Tao Okamoto become just as familiar as the bookings continue to stack up.

This year began with Liu adding Givenchy Couture to her CV, and renewing her contract with Calvin Klein. But the year was just getting started: in February she enjoyed her editorial debut with Italian Vogue. Photographed by Miles Aldridge, Liu played it straight, delivering a performance that was both polished and assured.

With a smattering of editorial work for both American and Chinese Vogue, Wen hit another career highlight in September with another magazine cover. Appearing for Chinese Vogue, Wen appeared with Du Juan, Shu Pei, Ming Xi, Sui He and Fei Fei Sun. With all the models dressed in gowns from Gucci’s A/W 11 collection, it was a true ‘East Meets West’ moment with Asia’s brightest talents wearing one of fashion’s leading labels.

The subtext was clear: for anyone who had missed it, this cover was telling the world that Asia is set to become the newest epicentre for high-fashion consumerism. The influence of fashion’s new high-spending fanbase is already starting to be seen with out-and-out luxury making a comeback. This season, quiet camels and muted browns make way for an effusion of colour. The detail is exuberant, projecting an optimism that felt like an impossibility two years ago. Asia’s enthusiasm for ready-to-wear and haute couture, and its willingness to invest in it, is giving the industry cause for hope. If not a fully-fledged solution to the economic downturn, it is, at the very least, a lifeline.

September was a busy month for Liu, working for Numero China, plus a substantial editorial with Dazed & Confused. The month came to a head when Liu made her campaign debut for Dolce & Gabbana. Joining Isabeli Fontana, Kate King and Constance Jablonski, it was the strongest indication yet that Liu was becoming one of those models who are able to work the campaign circuit at the very highest levels. Getting editorials and runway jobs are great, but for maximum visibility, campaigns are hard to beat. It is a fast-track system in turning a fashion girl into fashion’s IT girl.

Ending the year with an appearance in V magazine, Wen joined her agency stable-mates in celebrating the achievements of Marilyn.

With Wen on the books along with Caroline Brasch Nielsen, Eniko Mihalik, Lindsey Wixson and Nyasha Matanhodze, it is clear that Marilyn has a definite viewpoint on what kind of model they want to present. Maybe not as familiar a name as Elite or Storm, Marilyn has made its reputation on the calibre of high-fashion talent it represents. Caroline, Eniko and Lindsey are among fashion’s most sought-after stars, and Nyasha has just made her campaign debut with Louis Vuitton.

The models signed by Marilyn are unapologetically edgy: Wixson’s pout has made her a favourite with Miu Miu and Eniko’s curves have cornered the market in making sensuality part of the editorial experience.

Within this context, Liu fits perfectly as a Marilyn girl. Having a face that can project the core values of brands such as Victoria’s Secret and Calvin Klein makes Wen a valuable agency asset. Her ability to go out on a limb makes her one of fashion’s most exciting prospects.

Her career is filled with firsts: the first Asian model to walk in the Victoria’s Secret fashion show; the first model (other than Kate Moss) to front a premier issue of Numero and the first Chinese model to represent Estee Lauder. Just one of these accomplishments would be impressive: the fact that this is only the backbone of Wen’s CV is astonishing. Flesh it out with her wide range of editorial, runway and campaign work, and you get an idea of just how much this model has achieved. She is not only China’s most valuable player, but a versatile beauty that is rapidly on her way to becoming a global fashion icon.

HELEN TOPE