MODEL PROFILES: DAPHNE GROENEVELD

Born on Christmas Eve 1994, Dutch model Daphne Groeneveld has gone from niche phenomena to a model with massive global appeal.

Signing with Women Management in 2010, she was featured by www.models.com in January as a face to watch. The following month, she debuted at Fashion Week, walking in shows for Versus, Giorgio Armani and Hogan.

Her modest runway debut started a catalyst effect with Daphne scoring one of the most coveted campaigns in the business. She signed up to appear in the Spring / Summer campaign for Miu Miu, modelling with Siri Tollerod, Lindsey Wixson and Ginta Lapina.

The campaign proved to be one of the brand’s strongest images, moving away from recent celebrity endorsement to undiluted retro cool. Looking back as much as it looks ahead, Miu Miu is the leader of the pack when it comes to producing strong diffusion ranges. Building its own identity independent of its mother brand, Prada, Miu Miu has led the way in thinking about diffusion ranges not as a lucrative add-on, but a range in its own right. The brand’s decision in 2010 to hire two relatively unknown faces (Wixson and Groeneveld) was a stunning coup. Daphne’s self-assured performance in the campaign led to a flurry of high-profile work including a spot in the Givenchy Couture show.

Her second ready-to-wear season in September saw Daphne score opening spots with Calvin Klein and Max Mara, also closing the show for Marni. Walking for Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Jil Sander, Prada and Versace, her appearance at the Prada show caused a stir. Appearing in the heady swirls and stripes collection, this was a year after a slew of Dutch models including Mirte Maas and Lisanne di Jong became a media sensation in cropped jackets low-slung ponytails. Daphne, along with Prada newbies Zuzanna Bijoch and Arizona Muse, made a similar impression modelling a collection that combined Josephine Baker waves with brothel creepers. Prada has a reputation for finding original talent to match its original designs – for two years running, it scored big.

September also saw Daphne appear in her first major editorial. Booked by French Vogue, her debut with the magazine was not altogether surprising. A publication that actively champions ‘new’ faces in every sense of the word, it has helped boost careers of models such as Isabeli Fontana and Lara Stone.

The following month saw Daphne do duty for French Vogue again, this time working with Mariacarla Boscono, Crystal Renn and Freja Beha Erichsen. ‘Bal Masque’ was S&M inspired, but high-fashion generated. Daring and original, Daphne was already performing at the very highest levels of editorial. The year ended with a resounding vote of confidence from French Vogue, as she joined designer Tom Ford on December’s cover.

Moving to Supreme Management in early 2011, Daphne returned to Paris in January, walking in couture shows for Dior and Valentino. She also returned to the pages of French Vogue, featuring in their Spring. / Summer preview. Photographed by Mario Sorrenti, Daphne wore a large string of daisies around her head. It was to be a high-fashion image that inspired copies across the high-street, culminating in flowery headbands becoming the accessory of choice for festival-goers.

She hit the ready-to-wear runway in February with a 40-show season including opening honours for Calvin Klein, Herve Leger, Jason Wu and Rick Owens. Adding Chanel, Chloe, Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford to her catwalk credits, Daphne’s avant-garde look was translating across the board.

Daphne undertook another modelling rite of passage in April, when she appeared in Italian Vogue for the first time. ‘Personal Best’ was an editorial photographed by Steven Meisel, and celebrated off-beauties in a series of simple but quirky portraits. Daphne worked with Kristina Salinovic, and then solo for a Vermeer-inspired photo, plus a stunning transformation into a red-headed 60’s party girl. It was a perfect marriage of old-school technique and new generation styling – quintessential Italian Vogue.

Undertaking her second Italian Vogue editorial in September, Daphne experienced her biggest RTW season to date with 42 shows. Her runway work lead to more campaign signings, this time Daphne appeared in the Autumn / Winter ad for Louis Vuitton. Working with Zuzanna Bijoch, Fei Fei Sun and Anais Pouliot, this advert saw Vuitton become a lone voice for the military look this winter. But the message of the campaign was all in the detail: texture, texture, texture.

Also appearing in the Versace for H&M campaign and runway show, November saw Daphne in great demand. Appearing on the cover of V with Saskia de Brauw, she also appeared in two major editorials within the same issue.

The magazine profiled Daphne’s agency, Supreme Management. Featuring Daphne’s stable mates (including Iris Egbers, Jacquelyn Jablonski and Sessilee Lopez), Supreme is an agency that thrives on the thrill of the new. Part of an agency’s remit to scout talent that not only caters to what’s happening now, but to find faces that will hit a nerve. Supreme pre-empted new glamour, bringing in Jacquelyn and Daphne joins a new generation of ambiguous, highly individual faces that could never be described as middle-of-the-road.

Daphne’s ready affiliation with labels such as Miu Miu, Givenchy and Versace indicates that her comfort zone is with designers that live for change. Miuccia Prada routinely switches things up at Miu Miu; while Riccardo Tisci has transformed Givenchy Couture into a 21^st century powerhouse. Donatella’s vision for Versace has evolved from socialite glamazon to fashion for the people, with her highly successful collaboration with H&M.

No label stays the same, but these three are particularly good examples of how a design philosophy can alter and how important it is to have models who can go with the flow. Already in her career, Daphne has moved from quirky Italian retro to Parisian haute couture. Her unusual face should make her strictly an editorial girl, but Daphne’s latest campaign for Spring / Summer 2012 will prove that she is no-one's safe bet.

One of her last assignments for 2011 has been a portrait shoot for V. Featuring with other new faces, Daphne took her place alongside Ruby Aldridge, Emily Baker and Charlotte Free, refuting the old idea of the ‘one size fits all’ model. All defiantly different, these models escape definition but harness all disciplines of the fashion industry. It speaks of a wider trend moving away from groups of models (such as the wave of Eastern-European talent or the fresh batch of American girls) and into a place where individuals come forward to create a modelling landscape that’s unique as it is hard to predict. With fashion making big changes, it’s only fair to expect modelling to follow the same pattern.

The models beginning to emerge as potential stars of 2012, such as Codie Young and Frida Aasen, are faces that are suggestive of strength in editorial and the top layers of ready-to-wear, but they could just as easily surprise us and become campaign stars with the very biggest names in fashion.

As if to prove the point, Daphne’s first assignment of the New Year will be her most unexpected move yet. Featuring as the face of Calvin Klein’s new fragrance, Sheer Beauty, Daphne’s campaign photo has already been shown online. The image is startlingly romantic, ethereal and modern. Almost unrecognisable from her earlier avant-garde persona, Daphne transforms here to become the absolute Calvin Klein girl.

With this major campaign, Daphne prepares to enter the mainstream, making the transition from edgy fashion girl to an on-the-rise model, equipped with a bag of tricks honed from working on the world’s best runways and appearing in some of the world’s top fashion magazines. The campaign is a resounding counter to anyone who doubted Daphne’s ability to cross-over into more commercial projects. With the perfume’s launch in January 2012, this campaign is set to make Daphne an international name.

Celebrating her second year in modelling next February, Daphne’s career, like her look, will continue to be anything but ordinary.

HELEN TOPE

MODEL PROFILES: ZUZANNA BIJOCH

Zuzanna Bijoch was born in Poland in 1994 and her connection with the modelling world began at an early age. Aged 13 years old, Zuzanna entered and won a D’vision modelling contest, signing with NEXT Models that same year.

The agency chose to develop their new talent, with Bijoch travelling to Tokyo in 2009 to accrue some modelling experience. In July 2010, Zuzanna made her couture runway debut, walking for Georges Chakra.

She made her ready-to-wear catwalk debut in September 2010, making a splash as an exclusive signing for Miu Miu. Favoured by the Italian label, her other bookings included Jason Wu, L’Wren Scott, Marchesa, Marni, Tory Burch and Prada.

The sign of approval from Prada was made official in early 2011 when it was announced that Zuzanna would be one of their faces for the Spring / Summer campaign. Working alongside Tatiana Cotliar, Arizona Muse, Mariacarla Boscono and Kinga Rajzak, Zuzanna participated in a campaign that was to define the look of S/S 11. Photographed by Steven Meisel, the mix of nautical stripes and baroque swirls in blue, green and yellow was decadence meets discipline. Counting as one of their most visually dynamic collections, it was cerebral fashion anarchy, and S/S 2011 was Prada’s season for the taking.

The effect of Bijoch’s inclusion in the Prada ads was immediate. In February 2011, she opened RTW shows for Rue du Mail, Thakoon and Victoria Beckham, closing shows for J. Mendel and Balenciaga. Zuzanna scored an amazing 58 show appearances, including Alexander McQueen, Chloe, Dior, Fendi, Givenchy, Gucci, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Prada, Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren, Sonia Rykiel, Valentino, Versace and YSL.

Zuzanna had finally arrived on the fashion circuit, thanks to Prada’s patronage. The label’s star-spotting ability was right on the mark, with Bijoch working with a wide range of designers from feminine chic at Alberta Ferretti to sexing it up at Gucci. Appearing in every major show of the season, Zuzanna was a true fashion favourite.

Filling the next few months with editorial work for magazines such as Dazed & Confused, Bijoch travelled to Paris in July for couture season, walking for Dior, Givenchy and Valentino. At 5’ 9”, Bijoch is two inches shorter than most haute couture models, but her runway prowess marked her out as a natural.

The same month saw Zuzanna take centre stage as a cover girl, appearing in both an editorial and on the cover of Mexican Vogue. Her editorial, ‘Gracia Eterea’, is pure sun-swept elegance, showcasing classic fashion, from Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta and Halston.

Zuzanna visibly transforms in this editorial, wearing the classic pieces effortlessly. Hunched high-fashion poses have their place, but knowing how to work your body to create elegant, fluid lines is an art. Few get it right, but those that do, see their earning potential flourish.

Zuzanna’s next editorial, however, could not be more different. Working with photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, ‘Strict’, for Interview magazine was a fetish-themed editorial featuring Candice Swanepoel, Anais Pouliot, Emily Baker and Saskia de Brauw.

The theme of the shoot was a dark substitute for Autumn’s retro fantasies. In this series of provocative images, Zuzanna exudes a sultry softness that keeps the content fashion-forward, not top-shelf. With awkward camera angles and angular poses, the shoot was certainly button-pushing, but never exhibitionist. Bijoch’s strength and versatility in editorials was rewarded when she booked not only one, but three of the biggest campaigns of A/W 11: Chloe, Proenza Schouler and Louis Vuitton.

The Chloe ads, shot by David Sims, are the familiar sun-dappled vintage look that has become the visual shorthand for the label. Since its revival in the late 90’s under Stella McCartney’s directorship, Chloe has emerged as one of the labels most able to deliver what women want from their clothes. It takes the classic components of fashion – jackets, straight-leg trousers, bias-cut dresses – and re-works them into season must-haves. To model Chloe successfully, the fashion edge has to be softened, and in this campaign, Zuzanna joins forces with Sigrid Agren, Arizona Muse and Malgosia Bela to create images of women who are not slaves to fashion, but are freed by it.

Zuzanna’s second campaign is for Proenza Schouler. Bijoch carries the campaign solo, wearing the signature bright colours and geometric pattern blocking that forms the retro feel of the label. Famous for its ‘PS1’ satchels, defining its look on the runway and beyond has been crucial in creating a brand that’s developed, well-rounded and progressing ever forwards. Zuzanna demonstrates her easy affinity with high-fashion, wearing the campaign look as easily as a pair of jeans, making us not only appreciate Proenza Schouler, but covet it. The label needed a strong campaign identity; and with Zuzanna at the helm, it’s job done.

The last advert Zuzanna will appear in this year is one of the blockbuster campaigns of the season. Shot by Steven Meisel, the Louis Vuitton look is flying the flag for military chic.

Always popular during autumn and winter, the strong, body-defining tailoring of military-themed coats and jackets help in taking the sting out of cold winter days. The label is pinning its hopes on our love of perennial A/W classics, rather than fashion nostalgia.

As a collection, it is remarkable for being so different to other labels who are delving into fashion’s back catalogue. Vuitton’s creative director, Marc Jacobs, shows why he is a sure thing for the top job at Dior. Never afraid to be the first at heading in a new direction, after the pastels and sweetness forecast for Spring 2012, we may find ourselves in the mood for something a little tougher this time next year.

This September, Bijoch faces her third RTW season and so far has been seen in several shows. Scoring opening honours at Derek Lam and acting as the closer for Diane Von Furstenberg, to date Zuzanna has also appeared for Alexander Wang, Gucci, Versace, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, D&G and Moschino.

The word from the front row already is a noticeable lean towards fashion’s gentler side. With pictures in from the New York, London and Milan Fashion Weeks, there is a studied softness in the colour palette with muted colours: duck egg blue, sage, primrose yellow and white all featuring heavily in numerous collections. Some of the biggest impressions have been made on our turf, with both Christopher Kane and Mary Katrantzou already jostling for show of the season.

After years of celebrating tough, urban fashion, the tide seems to be turning with many designers choosing to explore their softer side. Gentler fabrics and brighter colours are becoming the norm across the seasons. Burberry’s creative director Christopher Bailey was one of the chief exponents of the urban look, with head-to-toe black and bags covered in stud-work. But his newest collections are a complete about-turn, with 60’s inspired coats in every shade from cornflower blue to pumpkin.

The idea that a particular colour range can only be suitable for a particular season has been challenged by designers wanting to look at new ways of wearing colour. The usual colours for autumn (red, yellow, orange) have been augmented to include brights more usually associated with summer: pink, green and blue.

This widening of our perception has heralded an end to the reign of urban fashion. As ubiquitous as it was useful, the street uniform of leather leggings, hardware and lashings of black has served us well. It was a look that could be punctuated with texture – shearling was often featured – but the need for texture, for softness, eventually became too hard to resist.

The core of this change is embedded in our economical turmoil. If we dressed for battle during the early part of the recession, as we now do our best to ‘keep calm and carry on’, what we need is comfort.

The abundance of tweed, lace, calfskin and shearling on this year’s catwalks go a long way to explaining our desire to be cosseted. We want to be wrapped up in cosiness, with texture providing us with a fourth fashion dimension. The feel of clothes has been neglected over the past decade, with our attention focused on their visual impact. How clothes feel next to the skin is rapidly becoming one of fashion’s major steering factors.

The theme of softness continues beyond outerwear with chiffon and silk lending themselves brilliantly to the 70’s-style pussy-bow blouses seen at Chloe, and the star-spangled jumpsuits from Dolce & Gabbana. The lightness of the looks coming off the runway is about freedom, not constriction. It’s not only our range of movement that gets a break this winter: the capacious silhouettes of cocoon coats and capes give us room to relax and take stock. If you’re already feeling the pinch, the gentleness of a cocoon shape won’t fence you in. When we’re all feeling the pressure, fashion lightens the load with collections filled with airy, dreamy looks that reassure and comfort us.

It’s this fashion landscape that Zuzanna will inherit in 2012. With an already-proven track record as an interpreter of fashion’s softer side, Bijoch stands to make it big next year. Her ability to fuse strength with softness will prove invaluable as the fashion world moves its tough-guy act out of the spotlight in favour of a look that’s soft on the surface.

But don’t be fooled: fashion’s new affection for softness isn’t about denial; it’s right in the action, with a core of strength that’s there, even if you can’t see it. In times like these, fashion is far from being frivolous: it has something very profound to say about the art of survival. 2012 will be a quiet show of strength, but no matter what, fashion has our back.

HELEN TOPE